Back to the traveldiary mainpage

Back to the prologue
First day: [1]
Second day: [1]
Third day: [1]
Fourth day: [1]
Fifth day: [1]
Sixth day: [1] , [2]
Seventh day: [1]
Eighth day: [1]
Ninth day: [1]
Tenth day: [1]
Eleventh day: [1]
Twelfth day: [1]
Thirteenth day: [1]
Fourteenth day: [1] , [2]
Fifteenth day: [1] , [2]
Sixteenth day: [1]
Seventeenth day: [1]
Eighteenth day: [1]
Nineteenth day: [1]
Twentieth day: [1]
2011-11-23_ArgentinaAntarctica
Second leg of the itinerary:
  • 2011.11.24. Whole day excursion to the Perito Moreno glacier (exact location). As extra option I selected the Nautical Safari activity as well: it means you'll see this wonderful blue mass of ice in the front, from a ship; I think this gives more opportunities for the photography than the other miniTrekking, when you walk a few hours on the top of the glacier.
  • No KMZ (Google Earth) for this traveldiary.
The morning
After waking up around 7:30am and some shower I went down for breakfast because the transfer to the glaciers picks up at 8:10am.

I went down when the owner of the hotel (I think he's the one, this is a smaller family hotel) told me here's my luggage.

My joy took me off to the skies.

I had 20 minutes before leaving: I quickly started to charge BlackBerry at least for this time, then some extra French washing then rush to breakfast: some toasts with butter, coffee, water (the orange juice was gone by the time) and various cakes. The slight downside, if you want some cold meat or cheese, then you have to pay an extra 7-8ARS.

Then rush back to the room, I took the tunnel scarf, gloves - and the most important: my smaller photo shoulder bag and the case for the 80-200 mm lens a they travelled in the luggage. Without these I had to carry the big backpack to the excursion. I hastily packed the stuff into the small bag and the minivan waited for me
Departure to the Perito Moreno glacier
The lunch pack: homemade bread (although even for me a bit too white) with tuna and cheese slice, besides mayonnaise, sweets and a mineral water. 55ARS/12.46USD.

The other option is if you grab some food in the restaurant of the glacier.
d02_001 (2011-11-24 08:08:46) -- show location on Google Maps
Leaving to the other hotels to pick up 3-4 other people who chose this same excursion - then we headed to the glacier which is about 80 km away.
d02_002 (2011-11-24 08:18:50) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_003 (2011-11-24 08:38:39) -- show location on Google Maps
The landscape is wonderful in itself and I must say as a travelled but European boy, the differences jump into your face: this is indeed an another continent a different climate, etc.
d02_004 (2011-11-24 08:43:36) -- show location on Google Maps
During the approach to the glaciers the guide girl educated us both in Spanish and English: about the place and the agenda.
d02_005 (2011-11-24 08:44:34) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_006 (2011-11-24 08:50:34) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_007 (2011-11-24 08:52:37) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_008 (2011-11-24 08:59:15) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_009 (2011-11-24 08:59:52) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_010 (2011-11-24 09:05:51) -- show location on Google Maps
The entrance to the National Park. We parked down for an about 5 minutes, the employee came and everybody paid the entrance fee.
d02_011 (2011-11-24 09:09:17) -- show location on Google Maps
The ticket had to be paid separately, which is 100ARS/22.66USD, but as I was prepared I waved my DNI card: with this as the proof of Argentine residency I paid only 40ARS. So the DNI isn't only good for easier shopping, but saving 60ARS.
d02_012 (2011-11-24 09:14:05) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_013 (2011-11-24 09:24:49) -- show location on Google Maps
From the gate, there's still some drive toward north-northeast to the glacier.
d02_014 (2011-11-24 09:28:23) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_015 (2011-11-24 09:30:30) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_016 (2011-11-24 09:30:41) -- show location on Google Maps
Perito Moreno from the distance
An about 10 minute stop, looking to the eastern side of the glacier.

panorama01

panorama02
d02_017 (2011-11-24 09:39:34) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_018 (2011-11-24 09:40:31) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_019 (2011-11-24 09:42:06) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_020 (2011-11-24 09:43:33) -- show location on Google Maps
Going toward.
d02_021 (2011-11-24 09:46:22) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_022 (2011-11-24 09:47:25) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_023 (2011-11-24 09:48:19) -- show location on Google Maps
Nautical Safari
Getting onto the boat.
d02_024 (2011-11-24 10:03:52) -- show location on Google Maps

panorama03
d02_025 (2011-11-24 10:05:05) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_026 (2011-11-24 10:14:57) -- show location on Google Maps

panorama04
In front of Perito Moreno

panorama05

panorama06

panorama07
d02_027 (2011-11-24 10:25:11) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_028 (2011-11-24 10:25:48) -- show location on Google Maps
The main protagonist: Ice Nostrils.
d02_029 (2011-11-24 10:27:46) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_030 (2011-11-24 10:29:16) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_031 (2011-11-24 10:30:51) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_032 (2011-11-24 10:31:33) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_033 (2011-11-24 10:31:45) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_034 (2011-11-24 10:32:00) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_035 (2011-11-24 10:38:02) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_036 (2011-11-24 10:42:15) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_037 (2011-11-24 10:44:07) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_038 (2011-11-24 10:48:04) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_039 (2011-11-24 10:56:03) -- show location on Google Maps
The other possible activity: trekking on the top of the glacier. You get some crampons and following the guide walking up and down and around on the glacier.

If I get again to El Calafate, I surely would choose this (than the sailing again). I'd be interested especially in those ice caves, and with a summer date and sunshine, it sounds interesting.
d02_040 (2011-11-24 10:56:10) -- show location on Google Maps
Ice climbing and football.
d02_041 (2011-11-24 10:56:34) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_042 (2011-11-24 10:57:10) -- show location on Google Maps
The real lookout point to the glacier; naturally this was the next stop.
d02_043 (2011-11-24 10:57:58) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_044 (2011-11-24 10:58:22) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_045 (2011-11-24 10:59:27) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_046 (2011-11-24 10:59:50) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_047 (2011-11-24 11:00:13) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_048 (2011-11-24 11:00:24) -- show location on Google Maps
The Sacrifice.
d02_049 (2011-11-24 11:00:35) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_050 (2011-11-24 11:00:45) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_051 (2011-11-24 11:01:39) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_052 (2011-11-24 11:02:04) -- show location on Google Maps
Leaving the glacier.
d02_053 (2011-11-24 11:04:19) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_054 (2011-11-24 11:04:50) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_055 (2011-11-24 11:06:39) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_056 (2011-11-24 11:10:03) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_057 (2011-11-24 11:11:23) -- show location on Google Maps
On the contrary to the sailing in the Beagle-channel - where I wanted the smaller ship - here the catamaran was a much better option because everybody had some space. That other ship looks much crowded even from here.
d02_058 (2011-11-24 11:11:31) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_059 (2011-11-24 11:11:38) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_060 (2011-11-24 11:13:50) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_061 (2011-11-24 11:16:27) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_062 (2011-11-24 11:17:44) -- show location on Google Maps
Perito Moreno, from the lookout
d02_063 (2011-11-24 11:42:21) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_064 (2011-11-24 11:44:47) -- show location on Google Maps
The glacier is a 250 km2 field and wall of ice (average height is 74 meters), and this makes it the third biggest fresh water reserve in the world.

Though the weather wasn't gracious at all, but the view and the glacier really deserves its place on the list of the world heritage.

panorama08
d02_065 (2011-11-24 11:51:51) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_066 (2011-11-24 11:54:13) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_067 (2011-11-24 11:56:38) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_068 (2011-11-24 11:56:45) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_069 (2011-11-24 11:57:05) -- show location on Google Maps
There was the Nautical Safari sailing.
d02_070 (2011-11-24 11:57:54) -- show location on Google Maps
The Chilean fire bush.
d02_071 (2011-11-24 11:58:52) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_072 (2011-11-24 11:59:00) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_073 (2011-11-24 12:01:16) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_074 (2011-11-24 12:02:07) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_075 (2011-11-24 12:06:59) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_076 (2011-11-24 12:20:31) -- show location on Google Maps
If the weather had been sunny and clear, then above the glacier approximately behind the last disappearing rocks, about 10 km farther, the peaks of the Chilean Andes would be visible.

panorama09
d02_077 (2011-11-24 12:34:52) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_078 (2011-11-24 12:35:09) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_079 (2011-11-24 12:40:17) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_080 (2011-11-24 12:42:32) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_081 (2011-11-24 12:45:38) -- show location on Google Maps
Restaurant and resting place, you start the tour from here to the lookout of the glacier.
d02_082 (2011-11-24 13:31:12) -- show location on Google Maps
Then at 13:45 I met again with the group and headed back to El Calafate. On the way we got some souvenir: liquor made of calafate and local chocolate.
d02_083 (2011-11-24 13:31:17) -- show location on Google Maps
The next group.
d02_084 (2011-11-24 13:31:22) -- show location on Google Maps
Back to El Calafate
d02_085 (2011-11-24 15:20:38) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_086 (2011-11-24 15:22:51) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_087 (2011-11-24 15:20:28) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_088 (2011-11-24 15:20:58) -- show location on Google Maps
Internet
Since we got back to town by half past 3, I asked them to leave me in the Downtown (they could take me back to the hotel too), because I had a task: for the flight tomorrow I want to do the web check-in because the only thing I want to do is to drop the luggage...

After my happy disappointment I found an internet café with printing abilities: I hastily did the check-in and paid only 7ARS/1.58USD.
Strolling
Then I walked back to the hotel to charge the batteries then again back to the town; for what on the contrary to my fears I have an about whole day (this afternoon and tomorrow morning as I'll be picked up tomorrow afternoon to transfer out to the airport).
d02_089 (2011-11-24 16:21:40) -- show location on Google Maps
The street next to the hotel.

panorama10

panorama11
The opposite hotel, Hostería Posta Sur.
d02_090 (2011-11-24 16:46:27) -- show location on Google Maps

panorama12
d02_091 (2011-11-24 16:48:39) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_092 (2011-11-24 16:49:15) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_093 (2011-11-24 16:50:03) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_094 (2011-11-24 16:50:07) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_095 (2011-11-24 16:50:49) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_096 (2011-11-24 16:55:05) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_097 (2011-11-24 16:57:14) -- show location on Google Maps
An about 180 degrees lookout to the town.

panorama13
El Calafate, the capital of the glaciers welcomes you.
d02_098 (2011-11-24 17:13:01) -- show location on Google Maps
Gaucho museum. The very simplified explanation is, that the gaucho people are the Argentine cowboys.
d02_099 (2011-11-24 17:15:03) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_100 (2011-11-24 17:17:30) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_101 (2011-11-24 17:20:19) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_102 (2011-11-24 17:22:22) -- show location on Google Maps
The downtown.
d02_103 (2011-11-24 17:58:23) -- show location on Google Maps

panorama14
And its streets behind.

panorama15
The elite quarter of the classier hotels.
d02_104 (2011-11-24 18:29:08) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_105 (2011-11-24 18:30:30) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_106 (2011-11-24 18:33:08) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_107 (2011-11-24 18:33:31) -- show location on Google Maps
And one intersection back, here's the hmm...Hotel Eden.
d02_108 (2011-11-24 18:36:19) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_109 (2011-11-24 18:51:41) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_110 (2011-11-24 18:53:05) -- show location on Google Maps

panorama16
d02_111 (2011-11-24 18:56:53) -- show location on Google Maps
Mood of El Calafate in the early evening.
d02_112 (2011-11-24 18:57:12) -- show location on Google Maps
Climbing to the top of the hill, hoping a broad view.
d02_113 (2011-11-24 18:59:56) -- show location on Google Maps
Failed, because of the roofs.

panorama17
d02_114 (2011-11-24 19:10:03) -- show location on Google Maps
Similarly to the last evening I walked around in the town with all the major northern and southern points along the main street. This spot is a southern spot towards north from the side of the hill: view to the Lago Argentino which is the biggest lake of Argentina.

I immediately recalled the similarity between this and the beautiful azure lakes in the Italian Alps.
d02_115 (2011-11-24 19:13:20) -- show location on Google Maps
Been there, done that.
d02_116 (2011-11-24 19:15:47) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_117 (2011-11-24 19:19:19) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_118 (2011-11-24 19:22:06) -- show location on Google Maps
d02_119 (2011-11-24 19:40:03) -- show location on Google Maps
El Calafate: the fruit
The mysterious el calafate liquor.
d02_120 (2011-11-24 22:35:00) -- show location on Google Maps
This calafate is an indeed pleasing fruit: though I had the liquor version, yet it's still not too sweet, but...well...I don't know how to explain the taste. It's really some berry, but pretty far from other berries. I ate blueberry a long time ago, so I don't know if this is similar. :)
d02_121 (2011-11-24 22:41:31) -- show location on Google Maps
Tomorrow
Tomorrow morning I'll still have some time as the plane goes later. Although it's a question what else can I find because this town is indeed nice and cute but the main attractions are only the glaciers and the Cristina Residency (it's farther, I didn't go). I already met the town itself, outside of this your options are hiking (on foot, 4x4, etc.) - and none of these been planned for the moment. Possibly I'll make a longer walk, closer to the lake.

So here am I now, I disappeared because of the disappeared luggage - and I couldn't know when I'll be able to charge again, or now I had this Perito Moreno activity. I haven't really imagined that 32 hours can just pass by in the blink of an eye, but yes. 22:46 and I still go down to the front of the hotel for some night shots.