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First day: [1]
Second day: [1]
Third day: [1]
Shoreline, suburbs.
  • No KMZ (Google Earth) for this traveldiary.
Again at Retiro
Half past midnight on an exotic bus terminal! What could happen, I cannot endure the strain!

Well. For instance I could miss...not get on the bus. Something similar did happen in the past.

I went on spree, jumped into the high life, YOLO, you live only once, give me one more cucumber salad! I browsed the offer of the buses in a large way, then finally opted for Tony Tur, which offered a diabolic randomness 666 pesos roundtrip ticket on suite class between Buenos Aires and Mar del Plata.

Not to mention the seat is on the first floor, the first one. During nighttime and rain this doesn't have a single drop of advantage but the feeling, the feeling!
d01_01 (2014-03-15 00:28:08) -- show location on Google Maps
The about 6 hours ride leaving after midnight doesn't offer any meal with cutlery, only an alfajores pack filled with dulce de leche. Further a do-it-for-yourself coffee machine with preinstalled sugar flavouring.

00:45am, bus departed. Five seconds later the lights went off: no hurly-burly, no ballyhoo, ya gotta sleep.
d01_02 (2014-03-15 00:29:02) -- show location on Google Maps
Arrival to Mar del Plata
Bull's eye arrival at 6am and a 40 pesos cab ride instead of waiting the bus.

Unfortunately the hostel welcomed me only with complete darkness and a door with iron bars at this early hour. So after some strolling a-round much to my happiness I randomly found a close coffee shop with open doors. Any morning walk in the early, windy, rainy and cold city wouldn't be very romantic.
Looking around, performing photosynthesis, reading newspaper until half past 8am.
d01_03 (2014-03-15 08:08:04) -- show location on Google Maps
Beach and sunshine
Slow departure while the city got to wake up...and let me mention, against the rainy start and nighttime wet weather the Sun will come out.

By 9am I strolled to the hostel, luckily they were already inviting the guests with open doors. Check-in, filling out the form.

Name? Szilárd
Age? 26 years
Occupation? Bon viveur and lion tamer
Sex? Let's talk first

After we finished laughing I took over the keys to the room. Put down the luggage and headed to the walk.
d01_04 (2014-03-15 09:20:00) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_05 (2014-03-15 09:21:29) -- show location on Google Maps
The Gran Hotel Provincial VIP shoreline.
d01_06 (2014-03-15 09:23:36) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_07 (2014-03-15 09:26:42) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_08 (2014-03-15 10:16:41) -- show location on Google Maps
The Rules of Bathing on the beaches of Mar del Plata, approved in 1888:
  1. It's prohibited to bath naked.
  2. The swimsuit must cover the whole body, from the neck to the ankle.
  3. On the Port, Church and Cave beaches men mustn't bath together with ladies who don't belong to his family, who men aren't serving as an escort.
  4. Single men must maintain at least 30 meter distance from the bathing women in the water.
  5. It's forbidden to use opera glasses or other far-sight instruments from the walkway while the ladies are bathing.
  6. It's prohibited to take animals into the water on the beaches designated for families.
  7. The use of indecent words and dishonest actions are also prohibited.

A 360 degrees panorama.

d01_09 (2014-03-15 10:44:58) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_10 (2014-03-15 10:53:31) -- show location on Google Maps
There was sunshine, there was seaside but alas no female beach volleyball. Only sand running.
d01_11 (2014-03-15 11:24:51) -- show location on Google Maps
The second Playa Chica after the first.

d01_12 (2014-03-15 11:50:03) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_13 (2014-03-15 11:52:47) -- show location on Google Maps
Sweet things before lunch
A little sweet tooth around noon in the restaurant of Manolo. They're specialized primarily in sweets but you can also find sandwiches and pizzas on their menu. Café con doble crema and 2 simple churros: 40 Argentine mangos. The non-standard churros is filled with either vanilla or chocolate cream.

As it's known I'm not sticking to sugary things without questions - and sticking to must be understood literally with the churros. Nonetheless it's a pleasant experience to consume one or two of this deep-fried doughnut bar.

Although they should skip the white sugar crunching between your teeth, it's unnecessary not only from a design point of view but the dough is already sweetened.
d01_14 (2014-03-15 12:04:32) -- show location on Google Maps
Parque General San Martín.
d01_15 (2014-03-15 12:52:56) -- show location on Google Maps

I turned into a corner and noticed a beautiful yellow luxury convertible in the shadow of a skyscraper. The ignition key was in place: I quickly looked around and when nobody paid attention, suddenly jumped into the seat.

The engine screamed, through narrow streets and red traffic lights my car rushed to the airport. The information reached me late but I cannot miss the plane.

Ten minutes later I stopped in the parking mall. Took out my gun, revolved the bullet chamber and left toward the building. In a sudden a few shots were fired and a bullet lodged into my shoulder. I must stop Frank before he would reach the plane.

I took a deep breath and through the door started to shoot my attackers.
d01_16 (2014-03-15 13:09:20) -- show location on Google Maps
Maybe not everyone recognized the similar looking airport building in the Mafia: The City of Lost Heaven game on the previous picture and the pertaining mission.

Now, we've cleared this up - ... - you can see the old field of the Mar del Plata Golf Club below.
d01_17 (2014-03-15 13:13:44) -- show location on Google Maps
The Naval Base of Mar del Plata.
d01_18 (2014-03-15 13:18:55) -- show location on Google Maps
The port
Truing, this port is more like a simple touristic experience package at best. There ain't no sailors with Popeye tattoos, lewd wenches, stabbing during the night after the dice game - only modest restaurants with live music and artesanal, handmade products.
d01_19 (2014-03-15 13:36:03) -- show location on Google Maps
Got the tip in the hostel, should I wish to eat real seafood in Mar Del Plata, then I want to sit into the La Marina restaurant.

The idea was completely super and I was totally assured: while I was approaching the restaurant I thought the huge line of people were waiting only the bus in the stop. But not, they wanted to get into the restaurant. I peeped through the window: the by look small family business had all their tables occupied. A few minutes later the first two persons were called by names, then the guard closed the doors with a key from inside.

Well, that's correct to say the places serving the most number of guests are generally the best - but this seemed a bit extreme for me. I neither wanted to wait, how much I imagined the fruits of the sea.
d01_20 (2014-03-15 13:39:05) -- show location on Google Maps
Naturally you'll find at least 6-7 other restaurants in the port, thus I sat down by random. As a starter two empanadas with tuna, 20 pesos. The tuna empanada isn't the most common type: I don't know the reason, maybe it's easy to spoil it - but the below have been the best I've had so far.
d01_21 (2014-03-15 14:10:03) -- show location on Google Maps
Main course: casserole of seafood in tomato sauce.
d01_22 (2014-03-15 14:19:24) -- show location on Google Maps
You can see from this direction too; it was an Italian pasta shop. Note: the Hungarian and Italian flags are pretty much the same, only the direction is different.
d01_23 (2014-03-15 15:37:50) -- show location on Google Maps
It's a Mar del Plata sight and fit into my planned southern walking, thus I stepped into the The Virgin of Lourdes Chapel for a few shots. It was built in 1927 to locally honour the place of pilgrimage in the French city Lourdes.
d01_24 (2014-03-15 15:50:57) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_25 (2014-03-15 15:52:07) -- show location on Google Maps
Lookout toward east to the seaside, and I'm continuing my path toward northwest.
d01_26 (2014-03-15 15:56:11) -- show location on Google Maps
Strolling in the Lourdes and San Carlos districts. It's a well-to-do middle-class barrio.
d01_27 (2014-03-15 16:11:49) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_28 (2014-03-15 16:12:26) -- show location on Google Maps
d01_29 (2014-03-15 16:12:55) -- show location on Google Maps
Roberto T. Barili Municipal Historical Archive. It was established in 1938 and moved to the current location in 1981. You can see various artifacts, photos and documents about the history of the barrio and the city.
d01_30 (2014-03-15 16:35:49) -- show location on Google Maps
One corner farther lies the Victoria Ocampo Cultural Center. It was named after the Argentine writer Victoria Ocampo who was one of the most important literary persons in South America between 1920 and 1930. Her name notes the creation of the Sur (South) literary magazine.

On the other hand I couldn't find out many things about her right there. I was walking toward the building to shoot a few images - heavily limited, the trees hid everything - and I was just about to raise the camera when a bodyguard-ish-looking parking attendant charged toward me with determination: No foto! No foto! There were rumble, there were in lesser situations like in the Chacarita Cemetery in Buenos Aires or at the Argentine-Bolivian border but since nothing much would be visible on the picture anyway...I respected his request, put the camera away. Sounds of a garden party echoed from the back (nothing was visible), maybe this or something else evolved his so agile complaisance.

Anyhow we got into a discussion. Where am I from? From Hungary. Aha. And what am I doing here, studying? No, working - replied the student-look-like person in his twenties. What? Computers, networks. The later course of the discussion became an eye-opener because he had more questions about computers than my self from Hungary.

So far I've had much more conversations about Hungary than computers.
d01_31 (2014-03-15 16:52:22) -- show location on Google Maps
Advancing forward among the houses of the upper-middle class.
d01_32 (2014-03-15 17:02:28) -- show location on Google Maps
Plaza del Agua. There's Wi-Fi.

Torre Tanque, aka the City Reservoir. It was built based on Corneilo Lange's design and the city inaugurated the tower on the 30th of January 1943. The water tower in Tudor style reaches 88.4 metres height on the Stella Maris hill, thus winning the highest point of the vicinity. The split cistern has a 13,000 m3 capacity, further the tower has an extra 500 m3 tank.

Unfortunately I didn't have any luck because according to the sign they're open only until 16:45. Anyway I'll return tomorrow morning - worthwhile because you can enjoy a nice view from the top of the tower toward the Río de la Plata and the city.
d01_33 (2014-03-15 17:36:10) -- show location on Google Maps
Back to the accommodation by 6pm, siesta. Two guys arrived, who scrolled employment problems. One hour later I decided to have a shower and dinner, so did I.

After a short walk the Parilla al Paso restaurant became the winner: 35 mango a hamburguesa completa, 3 dl malbec+cabernet love child cost 35 pesos and the sum is the 10% tip for the waitress altogether 100 pesos.

Half past 9pm with a full stomach, so I bought the daily second two-flavours Gianelli ice cream with pistachio and cherry - then walked forward in the night. How I mentioned in a previous traveldiary, I liked Gianelli more because their ice creams aren't over sweetened.
d01_34 (2014-03-15 21:11:22) -- show location on Google Maps
Again on the accommodation
By 11pm, the guys disappeared so with the gray noise of the TV I slowly fell asleep.

I haven't been able to figure this out since then: C and F - Cold and Frío. What's the sense of this?
d01_35 (2014-03-15 23:17:59) -- show location on Google Maps